One issue is making it look natural - although some people like more unnatural looks, that's for the photographer and audience to debate (personally I'm not a fan of overblown HDR effects except in rare subjects). It must map that range onto the 8 or 10 bits of brightness your monitor supports (or whatever your printer allows, etc.), but you still see a lot more Dynamic Range from the original scene. The HDR software then chooses to use the bright detail from the first image and the dark detail from another. However by taking 3 (say) 14 stop images each separated by 3 stops you get information for 20 stops of brightness (so for the Sunny Window in the dark room you have a shot showing what is outside, but that shot won't show what's inside, it will be mostly black but you have another shot with the interior detail and the window is white). You can have 20 stops of brightness in a scene, so whatever exposure you choose a lot of the detail won't appear (you should get everything on a dull day with 8 stops of brightness in the scene though). What the camera's exposure system allows is for you (or it) to choose what brightness level that range is arranged about. Cameras can only capture 12-14 stops (factors of 2) of brightness (outside that range you get white at the bright end and black at the dark). "High Dynamic Range" is referring to enabling you to see more of the brightness range in the original scene. This one is only lightly edited from the previous Giveaway of this product, it could do with some repetition removing, but hopefully people will understand I have to go buy Christmas pressies. I don't work for them and haven't had any contact with them for a long time, but I think some of their products are good but have something of a learning curve, so try to help. In a probably unsurprising development here's yet another screed on using a Franzis product.
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